The Science of Surfing

The Physics of Surfing is a new TED-Ed lesson that was released this morning. The short lesson explains how waves are formed, why they get bigger as they approach shore, and the geological influences that make waves bigger in some areas than others. The lesson also covers how surfboard shapes affect the way surfers ride on waves. The complete lesson is available here.


A few related lessons are found in Football Physics, the Physics of Skiing, and the Science of Baseball.